Agathonísi: Greece’s Tiny Island with a Big Heart

I was especially excited to visit Agathonísi (Αγαθονήσι) — not only because its short form “Aga” matches my nickname, but also because it marks Greek island number 39 for me and 49 for Alan!

Known locally as Gaidaro (“Donkey”) and in ancient times as Tragea, Agathonísi is part of the Dodecanese islands, tucked away near the Turkish coast. It’s one of those places most travelers hardly ever reach — and that’s exactly what makes it special.

A Small Community

Agathonísi has around 70 permanent residents, plus about 30 workers such as police and coast guard officers. When we asked about the school, we were told there are 8 children and 5 teachers. As you can imagine, everyone knows everyone here. Life sounds charming, but locals admitted it can be tough during the winter months. Clearly the selection of boyfriend/girlfriend is limited 🤪

Fishing used to be the main profession, but apparently due to overfishing by its neighbours Turkey, catches are much smaller these days.

Villages and Harbor Life

The island has two villages inland:

• Megalo Chorio (“Big Village”)
• Mikro Chorio (“Small Village”)

Between them lies Agios Georgios, the picturesque little harbor with a handful of hotels and tavernas.

We stayed with Maria, whose guesthouse balcony offers priceless views — so close to the sea you could almost fish straight from it. It’s a true family-run business, with grandparents helping out and Maria’s mother-in-law running the local supermarket. I only wish I spoke Greek better to hear more of their family stories.

Before we set off on our walks, Maria’s gran offered us Greek coffee and homemade sweets 😍😍

Walks and Bays

We hiked to Kastraki, an archaeological site that was unfortunately closed due to construction of a new museum. Still, the walk itself was worth it, with glimpses of Palos Bay, Poros Bay, and Katholiko Bay — all secluded and shimmering in turquoise.

Megalo Chorio, is not as cute as other Choras we’ve been to but I guess it serves the community well with its school, medical point, sports field, and a helipad.

Another hike took us to Mikro Chorio and further to Agios Panteleimon, offering sweeping island views. A shorter walk led us to Spilia Beach — a tiny paradise with a few trees, benches, and crystal-clear water. The sea looked irresistible, but I found it too cold… Alan braved a short swim while I (the wimp) cheered from the shore.

Local Flavours

When we asked Maria where to eat, she recommended two options: Georgios Taverna or Francesca’s at Island Hotel. The other taverna was closed for the season. We went for Georgios — and it was delicious! Octopus and goat in lemon, washed down with retsina, for just €27. 

Where to stay

If Maria is fully booked, there’s also another guesthouse right next door – see the pictures of both below. 

Practical Tips for Visiting Agathonísi

📍 Where is it?
Agathonísi is the northernmost island of the Dodecanese, close to the Turkish coast.

🚢 How to get there

• There’s no airport, so ferries are the only option.
• You can reach it from Samos, Patmos, Leros, or Kos on local ferry routes.
• From Athens, the journey is long (10–12 hours from Piraeus), so most travelers combine it with nearby islands.

🏠 Where to stay

• Most accommodation is in Agios Georgios harbor. Options are small, family-run guesthouses like Maria’s, or simple rooms for rent.
• Book directly with the owners – Maria’s number is +30 22470 29003

🍴 Where to eat

• Georgios Taverna: great for seafood, goat dishes, and local meze.
• Francesca’s at Island Hotel: another good option if you want a change.
• Don’t expect dozens of restaurants — the island is tiny, and part of the charm is limited but authentic dining.

🎒 Things to do

• Hike between villages and to small chapels like Agios Panteleimon.
• Explore the secluded bays (Palos, Poros, Katholiko).
• Relax at Spilia Beach with its turquoise waters.
• Chat with the locals — Agathonísi is more about people and atmosphere than tourist attractions.

Final thoughts

Agathonísi may be tiny, but it’s full of life, warmth, and authenticity. With its close-knit community, welcoming locals, and turquoise bays, it’s a reminder that even the smallest Greek islands can hold the biggest memories.

If you’re island-hopping in the Dodecanese and want to experience Greece off the beaten path, Agathonísi is worth the detour.